Lucknow’s Chikankari: Needlework with Nawabi Grace

Chikankari, the delicate white-on-white embroidery from Lucknow, is a poetic dance of the needle. Introduced by Mughal Empress Noor Jahan, this art has flourished for over four centuries, gracing everything from kurtas to sarees with its ethereal charm.

Crafted mainly by women, chikankari involves intricate hand-embroidery using traditional stitches like tepchi, bakhiya, and murri. Designs often reflect nature—flowers, vines, and birds—and are done on soft fabrics like muslin, chiffon, or cotton.

Once worn by the nawabs and their begums, today Chikankari is a global fashion trend, balancing heritage with haute couture. Though machine embroidery threatens the handcraft, true connoisseurs still seek out the authentic, painstakingly made pieces from old Lucknowi karkhanas.